In April 2010, Eleanor Moseman left Shanghai on a journey of more than 10,000 miles, across 3 countries, on one bicycle. This is where she updates from the road.
  1. Lunch

    2rmb for a bowl of pickled shredded potatoes, chick peas/garbanzo beans, chunks of potato, something else, hot sauce, and a whole bunch of awesome.

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  2. Tea and Bull

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  3. Arrival to Kashgar

    Last 50km into Kashgar was fantastic, hundreds of donkey carts, horses, and of course, the few camels. You can see these majestic beasts a half a kilometer away, their hair swaying back and forth.


  4. Streets of Kashgar

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  5. Paper Airplane

    Honestly, I feel as if I haven’t been taking enough photos. Today I went to the market and didn’t even make it across the street before chatting with a 32 Uyghur man in English. Our conversation was about politics and religion and lasted for about an hour. We are meeting for lunch tomorrow.

    While we were talking, a Uyghur woman approached who could speak Chinese. She’s a modern woman with no head scarf and I even noticed a small tattoo on her hand. She took me eat somsas (spelling?) and then we walked around teaching each other language. She must be in her 50’s or so, but it was lovely. She bought me a little bag of popcorn.

    Not successful with photos today, or too many in the past 5 days. I’m reminding myself that without fixers, I need to dedicate time to making my local contacts. It’s part of the work that HAS to be done. My phone book now has 3 local numbers, along with a friend in Xi’An that is helping arrange his friends to meet with me.

    Last night, I was walking around, and I saw a side of young and hip Kashgar. Young boys with slick hair riding on scooters and young ladies squeezed into skinny jeans, face made up, and no head scarves. The night life here must be interesting…I need to make some modern friends.

    Speaking of “modern”. Alim’s mother wants to show me how to “cover” and pray. Wow…how deep do I want to go down this road. He asked me how I could believe in Evolution? I even noticed him getting a smidge angry about it. Between the language barrier and the religion, this really is a topic that should not be discussed. I believe what I do and religion will never sway me from scientific facts. Sorry Alim, I can’t change my convictions, as you can’t yours…but I will respect them.

    Spending time with the family I’m beginning to see deeper in. There is a wealthy uncle, that married into the family, and I’ve seen him twice. Every time he slugs Alim in the chest…and hard! There is no warning. I hear the thud, and turn away, only to peek at Alim’s face and he struggles to hold back the face of pain. I can hear him make noises while holding it back.

    I believe Alim’s brother is autistic. Watching him fumble around on my computer and watching interactions, that’s my opinion. Uncle will do it to him too, but not so hard.

    Macho macho macho…Alim’s father is not like this at all.

    When Uncle arrived to the house, I watched Older Sister whisper to a woman that had come to visit. As a woman, and someone that has to rely on body language, I understood that she isn’t too fond of him. If it were American women, there would of probably been eye rolling.

    Uncle speaks very loudly, he’s the only man there, and I can tell it’s expected to listen. Before he arrived, I also noticed Alim can at times, be a bit aggressive and bossy towards women.

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