In April 2010, Eleanor Moseman left Shanghai on a journey of more than 10,000 miles, across 3 countries, on one bicycle. This is where she updates from the road.
  1. Bike Doctor

    The ride was taken in today for some maintenance and cleaning. She’s getting a new derailleur for sure. Jason had an epiphany that maybe a MTB component would hold up better for me. It’s not like I’m lying her down on the right side, but still, an awful lot of vibrations, dirt, dust, and just all around muck.

    My replacement tires finally arrived. TRUST ME, NEVER NEVER NEVER, SKIMP on a pair of good tires. After I met the “Potrait of the LBX” guys and claimed no flats in 5000km I kicked myself in the a$$ REALLY HARD! Our first day in Qinghai, I got 3 flats in 10 minutes – in the rain…in the city. NO MORE. I swear to …

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  2. Hanging with the Portrait of an LBX and guests

    Met up with Evan and Andy of  Portrait of an LBX here in LinChuan.  Along with 2 recent riders, Dave and Ellen, and recently aquired Pete.

    Hell of great people.

    Some good laughs of similar stories and thoughts.  And of course we have all spotted the Chinese brand “BullTitanUS” and the local department stores.  Along with chugging OJ “to keep the scurvy away”.

    They depart this morning for the North, hopefully making it back to Beijing by the second week of September.

    We head South to get Jason on an airplan and I’m onto Kashgar.  The word on the streets is that I have to go see Yunnan.


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  3. 2 Week Recharge and then off to Mongolia (be sure to use the 110 and not the 220)

    Jason has been updating this for me, but this is yours truly.

    Well, after the awful fiasco in Xin’BaErHeYouQi around Hulun Buir, I took a train from Wulanhaote to Chifeng.

    What happened that was so awful?  I’ll skim the surface for you.  I met 3 young men, ehem, let me rephrase, I met 2 young men and 1 monster.  After treating me to dinner I found myself having the monster “help” me to find a place to sleep for the evening.  I was locked in a room for 3 hours knowing that his intention was rape and possibly steal my belongings.  After 3 hours of me pleading and crying for release and him repeatedly telling me he would kill me – I got away.

    The scream I let out still doesn’t even sound like my voice.  The next 5 minutes are a haze.

    2 nights later I stayed on a Mongolia “Dude Ranch”.  I needed that.  These people gave me some faith in humanity.  The 3 people were “Mongolian” but I have realized there is a difference between ethnic lineage of Mongolian and those that live culturally as Mongolian.  Mongolians LOVE to drink…they LOVE to sing…they LOVE Americans.

    There was a boy on the ranch – “Bao’tur”.  He made me very nervous – even behind his silver reflector aviator sunglasses – I could see that he was one of the most beautiful boys I have ever seen.  His delicate and such unique face framed by soft curled dyed brownish hair.  It was not a sexual attraction nervousness, let me say that, but the fact that he was BEAUTIFUL.  Jason says, “that guy looks weird” – you may think that too – but this boy was beautiful.

    When I was practicing English with “Bao’tur”, “But’tur”, “Nancy”, and “Jake” – Bao’turs’ voice would go very high pitch and awkward sounding.  He made up for this silliness by the his natural appearance riding the horses – with no saddle.

    I slept in my first yurt.  It was a cement one, a permanent one.

    I returned to my Chinese “family” in ChiFeng last Saturday.  After another “boy” tried to scam me and who knows what else at the train station in Wulanhaote.  Luckily I stopped that one before there even was the option.

    Greeted at the train station at 5:30 am by my dear friend and “sister” Lotus.  Captain was there too.  It was so wonderful to see familiar faces and feel true, genuine love, from friends and family.  While in Chifeng, I was on the radio station speaking Chinese, danced for a large group of Eighth Graders, and had “little rain drop” (Lotus’ dear daughter) tell me my arms are like peaches.  I have hairy arms…you should see my legs!!!!

    After spending a relaxing, yet hot, weekend in Chifeng, I arrived in Shanghai Monday night.  I’ve never been one to run to the Gate and throw my arms around anyone.  But I shuffled (flip flops) past everyone and ran into Jason’s arms.  Yes.  Like a movie.  My luggage being one very dirty tanktop and pants and a load of Inner Mongolian Milk candy and Cheese.  Gifts.  Dirty clothes and candy.

    I have officially hit “Dirt Bag” status – and so proud of it.  People are amazed by my tan lines.  I’ve been told I look like a Chinese farmer and the man next to me on the plane kept looking at my arms and then his.  He was a little corn’fused.

    On July 1st, my final riding day of NorthEast China – I hit 5000km.  If you do the math, I did this in 2 months – with more than plenty rest days.  I plan to do the next 2 months, 6000km.  This will be Mongolia.

    Jason will be joining me for Mongolia – but don’t worry – I still plan to make a record amount of solo kilometers through China.  I guarantee that.

    While in Shanghai, I will be eating NOT Chinese food, though I have had 2 Chinese lunches.  I lied.  Let me rephrase…I will not be eating Chinese food when we can afford not too.  Still have got to reserve money.  The attempted rape drained 1000kuai out of my account really fast.  Taxi ride to next town and an air conditioned hotel.

    I’ve got a great paying job this week and that will more than definitely put my finances back to where they were before I started.

    One massage thus far, as I hope to regain feeling in my left middle finger.  I lost feeling and it’s completely numb – during the first week of my ride.  Pinched nerves?

    I’m going to go through some photos and maybe put a couple up here…I know you are dying to see some.

    Recently, I’ve had correspondance with your recent comment’or Edward Genochio and new correspondance from Evan Villarrubia, Portrait of an LBX

    Ed and I share a lot of similar stories and he’s been a great guy to talk with when I’m feeling beat the hell up.

    Evan and his cycling companion are still on the road in China.  I got a really nice email from him giving me props for doing this.  He said that he and his buddies have often discussed how difficult this would be for a woman…well, I’m doing it.  And to hell with that monster – I will NOT let any person ruin this for me.

    I’ll keep you all up to date