…was the day I decided to do this. really, truly, with all my heart, decided to do this.
In April 2010, Eleanor Moseman left Shanghai on a journey of more than 10,000 miles, across 3 countries, on one bicycle. This
is where she updates from the road.
Eleanor Moseman
person. bedouin. dreamer. artist. photographer. nerd. moverandshaker. cycle'r. explorer.
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July 31, 2009
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July 31, 2009
Well, I could say that the planning of this trip first developed during the first week of June of this year…a week before my birthday. But, thinking more, I realize that I have been dreaming of this for awhile…was it when I arrived in Shanghai to live last September? Or was it during my first visit to China, my first exit of the dear ol’ US of A?
Maybe it goes further than those moments…to the days of a 5 year old girl wearing her favorite set of PJ’s, the ones with Cowboy’s on horses. Through the days of thumbing through National Geographic magazines and wandering through the woods…pretending to be living alone in the wilderness…of her backyard. Up through the days of college, with her continued fascination of being a Cowboy in the lonesome and wild West.
circa 2001 – Copyright Eleanor MosemanAfter graduating in 2002, dreaming of running to some far off place. To see, to experience…to push myself…to find my breaking point.
Living here in Shanghai has been difficult, looking for work, finding friends…finding myself. Everyday, I was telling myself…if I could just get out of this city to see the country. Looking at myself in the mirror every morning wondering how I was contributing to the greater part of humanity. Being an expat makes you realize how small the world is…and how much smaller your life is in the whole picture. Who cares how much money you make, or what kind of clothes you wear, or the car you drive…it’s what you do to help others, the positive difference you can make in someone’s life. I am no martyr by any means – but life is too short to live a life chasing money and material possessions.
So here I am, wanting to see Asia, wanting to make a difference, and letting the world know…as a young woman…I can do both of these and...
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July 30, 2009
Okay, sorry for the parade of emails over the past 24 hours.
I received an email from a fellow that did a tour in these parts. I was
reminded of the 60th Birthday of the dear ol’ China in October of this
year. He has given me information where to cross into Tibet and since
Tibet is technically China – there are no Visa problems. There are points
to avoid, and because of the birthday, I may not make it across…but then
again…I may be able to. It’s worth a try.Also, I must say – on a blog – I can not go into political debate about
China/Tibet. ***omitted*** I can not discuss the
happenings in Urumqi with the Uighurs and the Han. ***omitted***People do question me heading into any of the ‘Stans as a single female.
So this has to be reconsidered.Mongolia has fresh new paved roads.
I need an invite from Russia to get a Visa – but I found out the consulate
here will give me one fairly easily and cheap.So, there we go, I feel a lot of progress has been made today (it’s
Monsoon season so the rain keeps me in).I said 6 months – but if my finances and sponsorship allow – I will go
longer. Graduate school will always be there.Eleanor
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July 29, 2009
So, before even receiving responses to my inquisitive emails…and knowing
entering would be completely illegal being without a designated tour
group, I have to strike it from the plan. I realized that if I don’t get
an exit stamp on my VISA upon leaving China, I can’t imagine them letting
me back in when they see no proof that I even left the country.***omit*** but playing the “stupid American” card will not get me out of this one. All
the travelogues I read, people pass through China…not exit and re-enter.
I am blessed with a multiple entry, year long work VISA…presently,
Americans are lucky to get much more than a 60 day single entry.And with this unfortunate realization – I will attempt to travel through
Mongolia – but once at the Russian border, there is a train that will take
me east to the Mongolian/Russian/China border. I know nothing of Russia
or the language…I know they like vodka.This is disappointing, but I feel comfortable with this…China. I know
enough of the language, customs, and just what to expect of the general
population. And it helps having local friends here in Shanghai, that have
family in cities all over this country. Everyone I meet here, shows a lot
of encouragement and tell me “oh, you will have to visit my hometown.”I’ll have the revised route in a couple of days.
Eleanor Moseman
Yen Ai Lun
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July 28, 2009
To protect your privacy, remote images are blocked in this message. Display images
Here is a Google Earth file, that will open showing points, and
ideal/alternative routes. There are issues of going into Tibet – I have
sent some emails to other cyclists that have made it through…so I am
awaiting some words of advice.Now, I need to get the approximate mileage on this route. The Mongolia
trek may just not be possible within the time frame. I am also writing to
others about getting through Pakistan as a lone female. I have only
encountered travelogues of groups of women, and men solo making it through
that country. There is fair warnings to be weary of a single female
traveling through.Just wanted to touch base with both of you. I am going to begin research
on bicycle sponsors within the next couple of weeks. Once I have a
bicycle, tent, and panniers – I am not worried about much more.I have also been keeping a journal going about the planning – offline,
good ol’fashion pen and notebook. Please let me know if you don’t have
Google Earth access and I’ll plot some points on a 2d map and send it your
way.Eleanor Moseman
Yen Ai Lun